A detailed account of my adventures, joys, and challenges of living in Accra, Ghana.

Wednesday, November 14, 2007

Developing Trust

Two recent incidents in Ghana recently have disturbed me deeply. Both incidents have me thinking about the importance of trust in cross-cultural relations and how this plays a role in development. Last week I heard a story of a British consultant that molested a three year old Ghanaian girl. The man was with his Ghanaian colleague and the colleague left his daughter with the man, who than proceeded to molest her. The only way the father knew was because the girl was bleeding profusely when he returned. The situation enraged me because that little girl’s life will be changed forever by that one moment. I cannot imagine what is going through the mind of her father but I can only imagine that he will find it very difficult to work with foreign colleagues or develop any sort of trust with them, which is a major detriment to creating meaningful cross-cultural relationships.

The second incident also involving a British man, this one a 63-year old photographer, was with a 19-year old Ghanaian boy. The man and the boy met online and the man said he was coming to Ghana on business and would visit the boy. The boy picked the man up from the airport and brought the man to his family, who he introduced to them as his pen pal. The two then traveled to Cape Coast and Kakum NP where at each location, the man sodomized the boy, took illicit photographs and videotaped the two in indecent acts. The man was caught at the airport where he was suspected of smuggling drugs but instead was found to have indecent photographs and videos. Both the man and the boy, because he was of age, were arrested and are awaiting trial.

I do not want to know what possesses people to perform such acts. I’m sure they do not realize that their actions have repercussions far beyond themselves and their victims. These incidents weaken any trust that has been established between Ghana and foreign countries. In a culture where the history of cross-cultural abuse is so strong, because of the slave trade, the role of trust in development here is crucial. For those people that are trying to develop an environment of reciprocity and trust, there work will be overshadowed by these bad incidents. The position of foreigners working in development is already so fragile because ultimately the goal is for a country to realize its own potential without the inputs or conditions of outside sources.

This also raises questions of sustainability that is also so important to development. I’ve even noticed that my boss prefers to do things himself that could easily be shared by myself and Jody. We’ve often wondered why he doesn’t choose to share his burden with us and we’ve realized that it’s probably because he knows we are leaving in a few months and will have to do it himself then anyhow. He thinks that the work we do will be unsustainable and is trying to protect the interests of his organization and its beneficiaries. Meanwhile, Jody and I sit and wonder what it is that we can do and question whether our presence here is having any real impact.

Ant Attack!


When you go to Africa people worry you about large predatory animals like lions and well not tigers and not bears but a slough of other horrifying creatures like snakes and large venomous insects. However, no one ever really addresses the fact that the biggest pest and most aggressive is the ANT! Yes, my life has been taken over by tiny little insects that bite at my feet, invade my desk, bathroom and kitchen and generally cause much anxiety. I can’t seem to get rid of them and they torment me like they know that they can get to me and take pride in it. The only thing I can say that I’ve found mildly fascinating about them is the sheer masses they travel in and the teamwork they employ to move things. I’ve seen full size moths, like the one in this picture and cockroaches being carried away by an assembly line of ants, up walls and around objects.

There have been two horrifying experiences with them to date. I woke up one morning and went to do the bathroom to do my business. I was still in a daze from sleep and I’m sure my eyes were only half open. When I went to reach for the toilet paper the entire roll and holder was covered with ants. I then noticed that the entire wall to the right of the toilet was covered in ants scurrying and traveling in chaos. I freaked and ran from the bathroom. Not having any Raid in the house I had to fend them off with a bottle of Deep Woods and a shoe. The second experience was one morning in the office. The previous night I was sitting at the table playing cards and someone looked over my shoulder and said, “Oh my God!” I freaked thinking thinking it was an army of ants to find out that she was merely noticing that a glass of water was about to spill off the edge of the table. So the next morning, my nerves already shot from thinking that ants are out to get me, my colleague Jody is talking to me and all of a sudden says, “Oh my God,” while looking over my shoulder. Is she referring to a glass of water? No…I turn to find out that my fear is not unfounded because a thousand ants were rushing around in a pile on the window sill behind my head. Aack! The office was a little more prepared than our house and we watched on as Ebenezer attacked the colony with Raid.

Most people would say I shouldn’t complain about such a trivial insect such as an ant, but I am and will continue to as long as they’re around. The other issue is that the only remedy or way to keep them at bay is with Raid. My immune system is already severely compromised because of the level of pollution in Accra and subjecting my system to the chemicals inside Raid is not helping the matter. I would use a home remedy like lemons but I don’t think I’d be able to buy enough. Another point of worry is that mango season is dawning and that means more ants because they thrive on the sweet nectar of the mango trees. I pray that God will grant me the patience to deal with these creatures.

Fieldwork in Shama

s

A few weeks ago, I had the opportunity to accompany Ebenezer, my boss, and Jody, the Project Officer, to a cornmill project that HelpAge supports in a village called Shama, in western region. We only went for the night and returned to Accra on a Friday afternoon. I should precede this with saying that the last couple of weeks at HelpAge have been somewhat discouraging. I am constantly reminded by my work that the organization has little money and there are currently few projects being administered because of the lack of funding. As such, I went with the hope that we would be able to see one of the projects that HelpAge supports in action and it might give us a renewed hope in the organization. This was however not to be the case, as currently the corn mill is broken, something attributed to a bad fuse and faulty wiring in the shop. Unfortunately, a part of me was thinking that this didn’t come as a surprise which I hope means I’m not losing hope altogether.

The building containing the cornmill was a wooden shed and alongside another building was in the midst of being constructed with a strong concrete foundation. The structure would house a kitchen and store room so the older women in the community could begin a small corn processing business for their village. I learned from Ebenezer that the building was yet to be finished because they had run out of resources to add windows, the floor, doors and a veranda. World Granny, who is the major donor for the project, contributed $500 to the completion of the building which was half of what the estimated budget called for. Although the money will help them get closer to realizing the full potential of the project, it falls short of allowing the grannies from seeing the project come to fruition any time soon.

I was also hoping that I would have had an opportunity to speak to the grannies and see what they thought about the project but most of the talking was done between the community contact, who is a headmistress in Shama, and Ebenezer. The women were Fente so it was even difficult to ask Nat, the driver who speaks Ga and Twi to translate what I wanted to ask them. It didn’t feel like the women really had a part in the project, apart from bringing their corn to the mill. I was reassured that the women would be taking care of the books and running the kitchen and store room but it felt like there was a lack of integration of the grannies into the planning and implementation of the project. However, I can hardly make an accurate assessment from just one glance at the community and the project, but I was getting this gut reaction nonetheless.

My hope is that HelpAge will be able to raise the funds necessary to complete the building and get the project running successfully. Or else, I might have to do my own a-maze-ing fundraising to get this thing going…hmm.

We had some time before we had to leave Shama and head back to the capital so Ebenezer decided to take us to the fort in Shama, Fort St Sebastian. The fort was first built by the Portuguese and changed hands several times before being used by the British during the slave trade. The walk through the grounds was haunting and it was not long before an uncomfortable pit formed in my stomach. When speaking about slavery, it is often hard to know what to say, especially as a descendant of British ancestry. Even now, I’m not sure how to express what I was feeling. We talked about the fates of slaves and the lasting effect that slavery has had on African development. The situation really allowed the reality of it to sink in. Ghanaians are so proud of triumphing slavery and colonialism, and have managed to keep a good relationship with the oppressors of the slave trade. They take full responsibility of the role that even their own people played in selling their people to the trade. The history of Ghana is so rich and diverse and I could feel it seep under my skin on that day in Shama. My next stop will be Cape Coast and Elmina where the larger slave forts are located.

p.s. In the pictures are some of the grannies from the cornmill project and chains from the slave fort in Shama.

Tuesday, November 6, 2007

Much needed update!

Hi all,
I feel I owe all my readers an apology for the severe lack of posting lately. I know there are no excuses but my internet cafe by my house is having severe technical difficulties, won't accept my pen drive and generally takes forever to upload pictures. So in an effort to keep you aware of my whereabouts I've come to another cafe to bring you all up to speed. I have many blogs on my pen drive that I've written and hope to post soon as well as some amazing pictures. I hope the suspense doesn't kill you.

In the meantime I will list some of the things I've been thinking and doing in no particular order:

- Work has been slow...and the work environment is lacking energy and motivation. I'm trying to be patient and find ways to work around this but it's been challenging. Currently I am working on compiling a profile of local grant institutions and donors and a 2-year fundraising plan for HelpAge. I am also hoping to compile and carry through a public awareness survey on HelpAge Ghana and issues of ageing in Ghana with the intent of improving advocacy and awareness activities.

- I celebrated Halloween in a weird and bizarre turn of events. I went as a prairie girl which many would mistake as a cowgirl...

- I went to the launch of World AIDS Day. I heard the Vice President speak and the President's adviser on AIDS and infectious diseases. The Ghana AIDS Commission showed a documentary on the theme this year which is Leadership, reducing stigma and discrimination. If the Commission can follow through with this theme some real impact could be made especially coming from leaders in the country, such as government, religious leaders, chiefs, etc. Also heard a Ghanaian rap artist PRAYE sing a song about World AIDS Day during which I saw the Vice President catch a yawn.

- Went to a charity concert for the flood victims in the north. I got to listen to John Legend's sweet voice which was an experience...and heard reggae star Luciano...the night was good but having to get escorted into the grounds by armed soldiers because of security reasons made us question why we went in the first place.

- Went to a wedding this weekend for one of the members of HelpAge's daughters. The ceremony was fairly contemporary. I was at an engagement party a few weeks ago that incorporates more cultural traditions. At the engagement party representatives from the groom's family presents gifts to a representative of the bride's family who has to accept the gift. Each gift holds a special significance, like a watch to symbolize time, a Ghanaian stool to signify that when we marry we come to sit and stay. I didn't know the bride or groom so it felt a little awkward to be there but I was grateful for the experience nonetheless.

So much more to say so I promise to write again soon...

Peace!